Essential Supplies for a New Cat: The Complete Checklist

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Bringing home a new cat is one of the most rewarding decisions you will make — and one that requires more preparation than most first-time owners expect. Whether you are adopting a kitten from a rescue, welcoming an adult cat from a shelter, or taking in a stray who chose you, having the right supplies set up before your cat arrives makes the transition smoother for everyone.

The difference between a chaotic first week and a calm one often comes down to preparation. A cat who walks into a fully stocked safe room with the right food, a clean litter box, and a cozy bed will settle in faster than one whose new owner is scrambling to find supplies at the last minute.

This checklist covers every category of supplies you need, organized into seven sections so you can shop systematically and arrive at pickup day fully prepared. For a day-by-day walkthrough of the actual first week, see our companion guide: Your First Week with a New Kitten.

1. Food and Water

Getting nutrition right from day one is critical to your cat’s long-term health. The AVMA and AAFCO both emphasize that age-appropriate, nutritionally complete food forms the foundation of feline wellness.

What You Need

• Age-appropriate cat food (wet and dry) — Choose food labeled “complete and balanced” with an AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement. Kittens need food formulated for “growth” or “all life stages.” Adult cats (1-7 years) need “maintenance” formulas. Senior cats benefit from adjusted calorie and nutrient profiles. A high-quality indoor formula like Blue Buffalo Tastefuls Indoor is a strong starting point for adult indoor cats. For a deep dive into selecting the best food, read our full guide on how to choose cat food.
• Shallow, wide food bowls — Cats dislike having their whiskers pressed against the sides of deep, narrow bowls, a phenomenon called whisker fatigue. Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are easier to sanitize than plastic, which can harbor bacteria in surface scratches and has been linked to feline chin acne. Buy at least two bowls — one for wet food, one for dry.
• Water bowl or fountain — Cats evolved as desert animals with a naturally low thirst drive, making adequate hydration a persistent concern. A stainless steel or ceramic water bowl placed away from the food is the minimum. Many cats drink significantly more from a flowing fountain because the movement appeals to their instincts and keeps the water oxygenated.
• Treats — Freeze-dried single-ingredient treats (chicken, salmon) are the healthiest option. Use them for bonding, handling practice, and positive reinforcement during the adjustment period. Keep treat calories under 10% of daily intake.

Placement tip: Position food and water in separate locations. In nature, cats avoid drinking near their food source because proximity to a kill can contaminate water. Placing the water bowl in a different room or at least several feet away often increases water intake.

2. Litter and Litter Box

The litter box is arguably the most important purchase on this list. Litter box problems are the number one behavioral reason cats are surrendered to shelters, according to the ASPCA. Getting this right from the start prevents issues that are much harder to correct later.

What You Need

• Open-top litter box (two boxes minimum) — Start with uncovered boxes that your cat can enter and exit easily. The box should be at least 1.5 times the length of your cat from nose to tail base. For kittens, choose low-sided boxes (3-4 inches) they can step into without difficulty. Follow the n+1 rule: one box per cat, plus one extra. For a single cat, that means two boxes in different locations.
• Unscented clumping litter — Fine-grained, unscented clumping clay litter is preferred by most cats. Heavily scented litters appeal to humans, not cats, and the strong fragrances can deter sensitive felines from using the box. Fill boxes to a depth of 2-3 inches. For kittens under 8 weeks, use non-clumping litter to prevent accidental ingestion.
• Metal litter scoop — A sturdy stainless steel scoop with fine slots makes daily maintenance fast and effective. Scoop at least once per day; twice is better. Cheap plastic scoops break quickly and let clumps slip through the slots.
• Litter mat — A textured mat in front of each box catches litter tracked on paws. Rubber or silicone mats with grooved surfaces trap the most litter and keep your floors cleaner. This small investment saves significant cleanup time.

For a complete walkthrough of litter training and box maintenance, see our kitten litter training guide.

3. Bedding and Comfort

Cats sleep 12-16 hours per day (kittens even more), so comfortable resting spots are a genuine necessity, not a luxury.

What You Need

• Cat bed — Cats gravitate toward enclosed, den-like spaces that provide a sense of security. A bolstered bed with raised edges, like the Best Friends by Sheri Calming Bed, offers the cozy enclosure many cats prefer while providing a plush surface for extended naps. Place the bed in a quiet corner away from heavy foot traffic.
• Soft blanket or fleece — Even if you buy a dedicated bed, have a separate fleece or sherpa blanket available. Cats often claim blankets as personal territory and knead on them for comfort. A familiar-scented blanket in the safe room during the first few days provides warmth and reassurance during the transition.
• Heated bed or pad (for senior cats) — Older cats and those with arthritis benefit significantly from gentle warmth. A self-warming bed that reflects body heat or a low-wattage pet-safe heating pad provides joint relief and encourages restful sleep. Always choose products with auto-shutoff features and temperature regulation designed specifically for pets.

Expectations check: Do not be surprised if your cat ignores the expensive bed and sleeps in a cardboard box. Many cats prefer novel, enclosed spaces. Provide multiple resting options at different heights and let your cat choose their favorites.

4. Scratching and Play

Scratching is not a behavioral problem — it is a biological need. Cats scratch to maintain claw health, stretch their muscles, mark territory, and relieve stress. Providing appropriate scratching surfaces from day one protects your furniture and satisfies your cat’s instincts. Play is equally essential: cats are predators, and without outlets for hunting behavior, they develop obesity, anxiety, and destructive habits.

What You Need

• Tall, sturdy vertical scratching post — The post must be tall enough for your cat to fully extend their body (at least 32 inches for adults) and heavy enough at the base that it will not wobble or tip. Sisal fabric or sisal rope is the preferred surface material. The SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post meets all of these criteria and is one of the most consistently recommended posts by cat behaviorists.
• Horizontal cardboard scratcher — Some cats prefer scratching on flat surfaces. An inexpensive corrugated cardboard scratcher provides that option and is easily replaced when worn. Offer both orientations to discover your cat’s preference, and place scratching surfaces near sleeping areas and any furniture you want to protect.
• Interactive wand toy — Wand toys are the gold standard of cat play because they mimic prey movement and allow you to control the session. Move the toy in irregular, darting motions to trigger the natural chase-catch-kill sequence. Always store wand toys out of reach when not in use to prevent string ingestion.
• Solo play toys — Small balls, crinkle balls, kicker toys, and springs give your cat entertainment when you are not available for interactive play. Buy 8-10 and rotate them every few days to maintain novelty.
• Puzzle feeder — Mental stimulation is as important as physical exercise, especially for indoor cats who do not get the cognitive challenge of hunting. A puzzle feeder like the Catit Senses Digger makes mealtime engaging, slows down fast eaters, and satisfies foraging instincts. Introduce it once your cat is settled in, typically after the first 3-5 days.

Play schedule: Aim for two to three structured interactive play sessions per day, totaling 20-30 minutes of active play. The best times are morning and evening, when cats are naturally most active. End each session with a small meal or treat to complete the hunt-catch-eat cycle.

5. Carriers and Travel

A carrier is not just for vet visits. It is a critical safety tool for emergencies, travel, and any situation requiring secure transport of your cat.

What You Need

• Hard-sided carrier with top-loading option — Hard-sided carriers offer better protection, easier cleaning, and more structural stability than soft-sided alternatives. A top-loading design is especially valuable: you can gently lower a nervous cat into the carrier from above instead of forcing them through a front door. Choose a size that allows your cat to stand, turn around, and lie down.
• Absorbent liner — Place a puppy pad or absorbent towel on the carrier floor for accidents during transport. A familiar-smelling blanket on top provides comfort and traction.
• Car safety setup — Secure the carrier on the back seat with the seatbelt threaded through the handle. Never place the carrier in the front seat (airbag risk) or loose on a seat where it can slide during sudden stops. Keep the car cool and quiet.

Normalization strategy: The AVMA recommends leaving the carrier out in your home at all times with the door open and a blanket inside. Feed treats in it occasionally. When the carrier is a normal part of the household environment, your cat will not associate it exclusively with stressful events.

6. Grooming

Regular grooming prevents matting, reduces shedding, and gives you the opportunity to check for skin issues, lumps, parasites, and other health changes early. Establishing a grooming routine while your cat is still adjusting and building trust creates habits that last a lifetime.

What You Need

• Breed-appropriate brush or comb — Short-haired cats do well with a rubber curry brush or bristle brush used once or twice a week. Long-haired breeds need a stainless steel comb and slicker brush for daily or every-other-day grooming to prevent mats. For medium to long coats with heavy shedding, the FURminator Cat Deshedding Tool removes loose undercoat hair effectively and dramatically reduces shedding around the house.
• Cat nail clippers — Trim nails every 2-3 weeks to prevent overgrowth, splitting, and damage to furniture or skin. Scissor-style or guillotine-style clippers designed for cats work best. Start handling your cat’s paws early, and trim one or two nails at a time if they are nervous, gradually building tolerance with treat rewards.
• Cat toothbrush and enzymatic toothpaste — Dental disease affects the majority of cats over age three, according to the Cornell Feline Health Center. Brushing even a few times per week significantly reduces plaque and tartar buildup. Use only cat-specific enzymatic toothpaste — never human toothpaste, which contains fluoride and foaming agents that are toxic to cats. Start with a finger brush and a palatable toothpaste flavor like poultry or fish.

Start early: A kitten or newly adopted cat who is gently introduced to brushing, nail trims, and tooth brushing during the first few weeks will tolerate these activities far better as an adult. Keep sessions short, end before the cat becomes agitated, and always reward cooperation with treats.

7. Health and Safety

Preventive health measures and a safe home environment are the final pillars of responsible cat ownership. These items protect your cat and prepare you for the unexpected.

What You Need

• Pet first aid kit — Assemble a kit with gauze pads, adhesive tape, antiseptic wipes, tweezers for tick removal, a digital thermometer (normal cat temperature is 100.5-102.5 degrees Fahrenheit), styptic powder for nail bleeding, saline eye wash, and your vet’s emergency contact information. Store it somewhere accessible and check expiration dates annually. Keep the ASPCA Poison Control number on hand: 888-426-4435.
• Microchip — Even indoor cats can escape through an open door or window. A microchip is a permanent form of identification that dramatically increases reunification rates. The AVMA reports that microchipped cats are returned to their owners at more than 20 times the rate of non-microchipped cats. If your cat is not already chipped (most shelter cats are), discuss microchipping at your first vet visit.
• Breakaway collar with ID tag — Even with a microchip, a visible ID tag allows anyone who finds your cat to contact you immediately without needing a scanner. Always use a breakaway collar designed for cats — standard buckle collars can catch on objects and choke a cat. Include your name, phone number, and “indoor cat” on the tag.
• Enzymatic cleaner — Regular household cleaners do not fully eliminate the odor proteins in cat urine, which means your cat can still smell the spot and may return to it. An enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle breaks down these proteins at the molecular level. Have a bottle on hand before your cat arrives.
• Cat-proofing supplies — Before your cat comes home, secure your environment against common hazards. This includes cord covers for electrical cables, cabinet locks for cleaning supplies and medications, toilet lid locks (especially critical for kittens), and window screen reinforcements. Remove all toxic plants — lilies are especially dangerous, as all parts of the plant are fatally toxic to cats, including the pollen. Other common toxic plants include pothos, philodendron, and sago palm. For a complete room-by-room walkthrough, read our cat-proofing your home guide.

First vet visit: Schedule an appointment within 48-72 hours of bringing your cat home. This establishes a health baseline, begins or continues vaccinations, checks for parasites, and gives you professional guidance on nutrition, flea prevention, and spay/neuter timing. Bring any records from the shelter or previous owner. For more on what to expect during those critical first days, see our first week with a new kitten guide.

The Complete Shopping Checklist

Use this condensed list when you are heading to the store or ordering online.

Day One Essentials

• Age-appropriate cat food (wet and dry)
• Shallow food bowls (stainless steel or ceramic, x2)
• Water bowl or fountain
• Open-top litter boxes (x2)
• Unscented clumping litter
• Metal litter scoop
• Litter mats (x2)
• Hard-sided carrier with top-loading door
• Tall sisal scratching post
• Cat bed
• Soft blanket or fleece
• Interactive wand toy
• Solo play toys (balls, crinkle toys, x3-4)
• Enzymatic cleaner
• Breakaway collar with ID tag

First Week Additions

• Grooming brush (breed-appropriate)
• Cat nail clippers
• Horizontal cardboard scratcher
• Puzzle feeder
• Pet first aid supplies
• Cat toothbrush and enzymatic toothpaste
• Cord covers and cabinet locks
• Treats for bonding and training

Quality-of-Life Upgrades

• Cat tree or window perch
• Water fountain (if not purchased initially)
• Heated bed or self-warming pad (for senior cats)
• Additional scratching surfaces for other rooms
• Calming pheromone diffuser (Feliway)
• Cat grass (wheatgrass) for safe nibbling
• Catnip or silvervine

Final Thoughts

Preparation is the single best thing you can do before bringing a new cat home. Every item on this list serves a specific purpose — meeting a biological need, preventing a behavioral problem, or protecting your cat’s health and safety.

You do not need to buy everything at the premium price point. A basic but complete setup with quality food, a clean litter box, a sturdy scratching post, and a safe environment will serve your cat well. Upgrade and expand over time as you learn your individual cat’s preferences and habits.

The investment you make in preparation pays off in a calmer, happier transition — and the beginning of a relationship that can last 15 to 20 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to set up for a new cat?

Expect to spend between $200 and $500 on initial supplies for a new cat, depending on the quality and brand of items you choose. The essentials — food, bowls, litter box, litter, carrier, scratching post, bed, and basic toys — typically run $150-$250. A first veterinary visit with vaccinations and parasite testing adds another $100-$300 depending on your location and the cat’s needs. Optional upgrades like a cat tree, water fountain, puzzle feeders, and premium grooming tools can push the total higher. After the initial setup, ongoing monthly costs for food, litter, and preventive healthcare average $50-$100.

What supplies do I need before bringing a cat home?

At minimum, you need food (age-appropriate and AAFCO-certified), food and water bowls, a litter box, cat litter, a litter scoop, a carrier, a scratching post, a bed or blanket, and a few toys. You should also have an enzymatic cleaner for accidents, a basic grooming brush, and nail clippers. Set everything up in a designated safe room before your cat arrives so they can settle in immediately. Schedule a veterinary appointment within the first 48-72 hours, and have any previous health records from the shelter or breeder ready.

Should I get a covered or uncovered litter box?

Most veterinary behaviorists recommend starting with an uncovered (open) litter box. According to the ASPCA, many cats prefer uncovered boxes because they allow better airflow, easier entry and exit, and a clear line of sight while the cat is in a vulnerable position. Covered boxes can trap odors inside (which is unpleasant for the cat even if it seems beneficial to the owner), create ambush points in multi-cat homes, and make it harder for larger cats to turn around comfortably. If you eventually want to try a covered box, introduce it alongside the open one and let your cat choose.

Do indoor cats need a carrier?

Yes, absolutely. Even strictly indoor cats need a carrier for veterinary visits, emergency evacuations, travel, and unexpected situations like home repairs or pest treatments that require the cat to leave the house. The AVMA recommends acclimating your cat to a carrier early by leaving it out in the home with a soft blanket inside, placing treats in it, and feeding meals near or inside it. A carrier-trained cat is far less stressed during transport than a cat who only sees the carrier when it is time for the vet.

What kind of scratching post is best for cats?

The best scratching post is tall (at least 32 inches), sturdy enough that it will not wobble or tip during use, and wrapped in sisal fabric or sisal rope. Cats need to fully stretch their bodies when scratching, so short or unstable posts are often ignored. Most cats prefer vertical posts, but some prefer horizontal or angled scratchers — offering both types helps you discover your cat’s preference. Cardboard scratchers are inexpensive and popular for horizontal scratching. Avoid posts covered in carpet, as this can confuse the cat about which carpeted surfaces are acceptable to scratch.

How many litter boxes do I need for one cat?

The standard recommendation from veterinary behaviorists and the ASPCA is n+1 — one litter box per cat, plus one extra. For a single cat, that means two litter boxes. Place them in different locations so the cat always has easy, low-stress access. This reduces the likelihood of litter box avoidance, which is the number one behavioral reason cats are surrendered to shelters. Even if your cat seems content with one box, having a second in a different area provides a backup and can prevent problems as your cat ages or if you add another cat later.

When should I switch from kitten food to adult cat food?

Most veterinarians recommend transitioning from kitten food to adult food at around 12 months of age. Kitten food is higher in calories, protein, and fat to support rapid growth, and switching too early can deprive a kitten of essential nutrients. However, some larger breeds like Maine Coons may benefit from staying on kitten food until 18-24 months because they grow more slowly. When it is time to switch, transition gradually over 7-10 days by mixing increasing amounts of adult food with decreasing amounts of kitten food. Sudden diet changes can cause digestive upset. Consult your veterinarian for breed-specific and weight-specific guidance.

Sources

1. AVMA - Selecting a New Pet
2. ASPCA - General Cat Care
3. Cornell Feline Health Center - Feeding Your Cat
4. AVMA - Microchipping of Animals FAQ
5. ASPCA - Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants